Method of manufacturing knitted fabric



y 25, 1955 A. F. BREITINGER? METHOD OF MANUFACTURING KNITAIED) EHBEIIQ/Original Filed Dec. 28. 1961 2: Sheets-Sheet l.

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United States Patent 3,184,939 METHQD (BF MANUFACTUREJG KNETTED FABRICAugust F. Breitiuger, Vestport, Conn, assignor to flared Knitting Mills,Inc, New York, N511, a corporation of New York Uriginal application Dec.28, 1%1, Ser. No. 162,646. Divided and this application Euiy 2, 1962,Ser. No.

4 Qlaims. (Cl. 66-42%) This is a division of application Serial No.162,646 of December 28, 1961 entitled Knit Fabric and Method ofManufacture now US. Patent 3,093,989.

The present invention relates generally to knit fabrics [and theirmethod of manufacture, and in particular to a process for themanufacture of a knit fabric having a plurality of longitudinallyextending pleats of decreasing width separated by a plurality oflongitudinally extending folds.

In various articles of wearing apparel, such as pleated skirts, dresses,blouses, sweaters and the like it is particularly advantageous toprovide pleats of progressively decreasing width such as to properlycontour the garment for the wearer. Various techniques are available forthe cutting and pleating of piece goods. However, with knitted fabrics,it has been a diiiicult, expensive and timeconsuming operation toinitially knit the fabrics with appropriate stitch configurations tofall naturally into tapered or graduated pleats. Heretofore, it has beeneither necessary to employ a hand process which involves the transfer ofstitches to impart a natural pleating configuration to the knit fabric,or to use relatively expensive machines of the flat Jacquard type,wherein it is possible to accomplish automatic transfer to achieve thedesired pleating.

Broadly, it is an object of the present invention to provide an improvedknitted fabric which will have a natural tendency to fall into aplurality of longitudinally extending tapered pleats incident to themanufacture thereof. Specifically, it is within the contemplation of thepresent invention to provide an improved process whereby a fabric may beknitted with a plurality of longitudinally extending pleats ofdecreasing width which are separated by a plurality of longitudinallyextending folds of corresponding increasing width such that a skirt,dress, blouse, sweater or similar garment may be readily manufactured,preferably using conventional and commercially available knittingmachines.

In accordance with article aspects of the present invention, there isprovided a knit fabric which has a plurality of longitudinally extendingpleats of decreasing width separated by a plurality of longitudinallyextending folds. The fabric comprises multiple swaths, each includingplural courses. Each of the swaths includes spaced first groups of walesof double-faced rib stitching providing a set of pleat segments, spacedsecond groups of wales of double-faced rib stitching providing a set offold segments, and at least one Wale of jersey stitching intermediateand joining successive pleat and fold segments of the first and secondsets and providing cusp segments. Alternate ones of the wales of jerseystitching are formed on opposite faces of the swath such that there is anatural tendency for the set of fold segments to lie beneath the set ofpleat segments. The overall width of successive pairs of pleat and foldsegments in each swath is substantially equal; however, there is agreater separation between adjacent and alternately formed cusp segmentsin successive swaths such that the pleat segments are of decreasingwidths in successive swaths and the fold segments are of correspondingincreasing width. The stepwise decrease in the width of the pleatsegments in successive swaths form longitudinally extending pleats,

"ice

which for all practical intents and purposes, have the appearance ofbeing uniformly tapered.

In accordance with method aspects of the present invention, a knitfabric having plural longitudinally extending pleats is manufactured ona conventional knitting machine of the type having front and rear needlebeds which are laterally shiftable relative to each other by the stepsof knitting plural courses of a first swath having spaced first groupsof wales of a double-faced rib stitching providing .a first set of pleatsegments, spaced second groups of wales of double-faced rib stitchingproviding a first set of fold segments, and at least one whale of jerseystitching intermediate and joining successive pleat and fold segments ofthe first and second sets and providing cusp segments. Alternate ones ofthe wales of jersey stitching are formed on opposite faces of the firstswath such that there is a natural tendency for the first set of foldsegments to lie beneath the first set of pleat segments. Therenpon, thefront and rear beds are shifted relative to each other to provide agreater separation between adjacent and alternately formed cusp segmentsin a further swath, as by shifting either or both of the beds dependingupon the inherent construction of the knitting machine. Thereafter,further swaths are successively knitted, with further shifts of thefront and rear beds relative to each other such that successive sets ofpleat segments are formed in endwise relation to each other. For eachshifting or racking of the needle beds relative to each other, there isa corresponding decrease in the width of the set of pleat segment-s,with :a corresponding increase of the fold segments such that each pleatwhich is composed of plural segments in endwise alignment which are ofstepwise decreasing width such that the overall appearance of the pleatsclosely approximates a uniform taper.

The above brief description, as well as further objects, features, andadvantages of the present invention will be more fully appreciated byreference to the following detailed description of a typical, butnonetheless illustrative process in accordance with the presentinvention and an improved knitted fabric resulting therefrom, when takenin conjunction with the accompanying drawings, wherein:

FIG. 1 is a plan view of the front face of a knit fabric manufactured inaccordance with the present invention, shown in stretched-out condition;

FIG. 2 is a plan view of the front face of the fabric when relaxed andnaturally falling into the tapered pleated configuration in accordancewith the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a sectional view on an enlarged scale taken substantiallyalong the line 3-3 of FIG. 1 and looking in the direction of the arrows;

FIG. 4 is a sectional view on an enlarged scale taken substantiallyalong the line 4-4 of FIG. 1 and looking in the direction of the arrows;

FIG. 5 is a sectional view on an enlarged scale taken substantiallyalong the line 5-5 of FIG. 2 and looking in the direction of the arrows;

FIG. 6 is a diagrammatic plan view of a section of the the front andrear needle beds of a typical V-bed knitting machine set up inaccordance with the present invention to knit a swath having a sectionsimilar to that shown in FIG. 3 and including double-faced rib stitchingproviding a set of pleat segments, double-faced rib stitching providinga set of fold segments, and at least one Wale of jersey stitchingintermediate and joining successive pleat and fold segments, withalternate ones of the wales of jersey stitching being formed on oppositefaces of the swath;

FIG. 7 is a fragmentary plan view of the front and rear needle beds ofthe typical knitting machine, shown racked over or laterally shifted inaccordance with the present invention to provide a knitted fabricsubstantially like that shown in FIG. 4;

FIG. 8 is a schematic and diagrammatic view similar to FIG. 6,-showingthe needle beds racked over or further laterally shifted to provide acorresponding decrease in the width of the successive pleat segments anda corresponding increase in the width of the successive fold segments;and,

FIG. 9 is a sectional and elevational view taken substantially along theline 9-9 of FIG; 7 and showing the stitch configuration of thesuccessivewales of doublefaced rib stitching providing adjacent pleat and foldsegments separated by at least one or more wales of jersey stitchingforming a cusp segment or fold edge.

Referring first to FIGS. 1-5 inclusive, there is shown a knit fabric,generally designated by the reference numeral 10, which is manufacturedin accordance with the present invention and has a plurality oflongitudinally ex tending pleats P P P etc, which are of decreasingwidth from the lower end to the upper end and are sep arated by aplurality of longitudinally extending folds F F F which are ofcorrespondingly increasing width. The knit fabric lid comprises multipleswaths or sections, such as S S which each include plural courses ortransverse lines of loops, as well be more fully described in connectionwith FIG. 9. Each of the swaths, S S etc., includes spaced first groupsof wales of double-faced rib stitching providing a set, of pleatsegments which ultimately form the pleats P P P Further, each of theswaths S S includes a spaced second group of wales of double-faced ribstitching providing a set of fold segments which ultimately provide thefolds F F F At least one Wale of jersey stitching is providedintermediate and joining successive pleat and fold segments of therespective first and second groups and provide cusp segments whichultimately provide the cusps or fold lines C C C C4, C and C Alternatewales of jersey stitching are formed on opposite faces of the successiveswaths S S such that there is a natural tendency for the folds F F F tolie beneath successive pleats P P P (see FIG. 5). Specifically, thecusps or fold lines C C 7 and C are formed on the front face a of thefabric 10, as seen in FIG. 1, while the cusps C C and C are formed onthe rear face 10b of the fabric 10, such that when the fabric 10 isreleased from its stretched condition (shown for the purposes ofillustration in FIGS. 1, 3, and 4) and falls into pleats (shown in FIG.5).

The overall width of successive pairs of pleats and folds in each swathS is substantially equal, with a greater separation being providedbetween adjacent and alternately formed cusp segments in successiveswaths S S; such that the pleat segments are of decreasing width and thefold segments are of increasing widths. Although the decrease in thewidth of the pleat segment is stepwise in successive swaths S S theoverall appearance of successive pleats is such as to provide asubstantially uniform taper for all practical intents and purposes.

In order to more fully appreciate the construction of the knit fabric 10in accordance with the present invention to provide the tapered pleats PP P reference will now be made to FIGS. 6 to 9, inclusive, for adescription of a typical knitting sequence in accordance with thepresent invention. Referring first to FIGS. 6 and 7, there is shown aschematic and diagrammatic representation of a typical sectionof thefront and rear needle beds 12, 14'

of a conventional knitting machine, such as a flat ,V- bed knittingmachine manufactured by Universal Machine Company. In such knittingmachine, provision is. inherently made for the racking or lateraldisplacement of. the front and rear needle beds 12, Mrelative to eachother, The racking may involve maintaining the rear needle bedld'stationary, with provision for laterally shifting the front needlebed 12 as shown by the directional arrows in FIGS. 6 and 7; mayinvolvemaintaining the front needle bed 12 stationary, with provisionfor laterally shifting the rear needle bed 14; or may involve theshifting of both needlebeds 12, 14 relative to each eepen other.Accordingly, in the appended claims, the reference to the shifting ofthe front and rear needle beds relative to each other is intended toencompass all three arrangements which are generally available forracking or laterally displacing the needle beds in a conventionalknitting machine. In a typical, but nonetheless illustrative setup, asshown in FIG. 6, the needles 16 on the front needle bed 12 are arrangedin successive groups each including twenty-one needles,,with two needlesbetween successive groups being either removed or retracted to aninoperative position. In a similar fashion, the needles '18 on the rearneedlebed 14 are arranged in successive groups of twenty-one needleswith two needles between successive groups being removed or retracted.At the needle locations where there is present both a front and rearneedle, there will be formed a corresponding wale of double-faced ribstitching in accordance with the usual operation of the knittingmachine. However at the needle locations where either the front or rearneedles are removed, there will be formed corresponding wales of jerseystitching. More particularly, where the needles are removed from thefront needle bed, the jersey stitching will be formed at the rear face1% of the knitted fabric fill, with corresponding indentations at thefront face ltla tending to form cusps or fold lines; and conversely, atthe locations where the rear needles are removed there will be formedcorresponding wales of jersey stitching at the front face Ida of theknitted fabric 14 with corresponding oppositely facing indentations andcusps or fold lines. Further, in this illustrative setup, the frontneedle bar 12 is laterally displaced. or racked over relative to therear needle bed 14 such that the two removed'or inactive needles on thefront needle bed and the corresponding location of the wales of jerseystitch.- ing will be separated from the removed needles on the rearneedle bed 14 and thejcorresponding locations of the wales of jerseystitching by one or more wales of rib stitching which ultimately willform the folds between successive pleats. For the specific example shownin FIG. 6, the group 26 of needles 16 on the front needle bed 12opposite the removed or disabled needles on the rear needle bed 14 willprovide two wales of jersey stitching on the front face 10a of thefabric 10 thereby providing a corresponding cusp or fold' line segment(e.g., cusp segment C The needle 22 on thefront needle bed 12 and thecorresponding needle'24 on the rear needle bed 14 will provide one waleof double-faced rib stitching and a corresponding fold segment (e.g.,fold segment F The group 26 of needles 18 on, the rear needle bed 14opposite the two inactive needles on the front needle bed 16 willprovide two wales of jersey stitching on the rear face 191) of theknitted fabriclltl and a corresponding cusp segment or fold line on therear face of the fabric (e.g., cusp or fold line segment C Finally, thegroups of needles 2%, 36 on the front and rear needle bed 12, 14respectively, will cooperate to provide a group of wales of double-facerib stitching providing a corresponding pleat segment (e.g., pleatsegment P The needle setup to the left and right of the describedsection of the front and rear needle bars 12, 14 will repeat to formfurther pleat and fold segments separated bycusp segments as previouslydescribed.

With the needle setup as shown in FIG. 6, plural courses are knitted toprovide the first swath or sections S which includes successive pleatsegments P P P etc. adjoining adjacent fold segments, such as F F F etc.by the cusp segments such as C to C 'inclusive. When the desired numberof courses are knitted in accordance with the design of the knittedfabric 1%), provision is made to rack over or laterally shift the needlebeds 12, 14 relative to each other to establish a greater separationbetween adjacent and alternately formed cusp segments (cg, cusp segmentsC C such that the pleat segments P P P etc. in-the next successive swathS are of a decreased width in accordance with the amount of lateralshift or racking and the'fold segments F F F are of correspondingincreasing widths.

In the typical, but nonetheless illustrative setup, as shown in FIG. 7(which is on an enlarged scale as compared to FIG. 6 and shows the loopconfiguration of the fabric in greater detail), the needle setup on thefront and rear needle beds 12, 14 remains the same, including successivegroups of twenty needles which are separated by groups of two needleswhich are either removed or retracted. However, the front needle bed 12has been racked over relative to the rear needle bed 14 such that therewill be provided three wales of double-faced rib stitching for thesuccessive fold segments F F F etc. between successive oppositelydirected wales of rib stitching. For the specific example shown in FIG.7 which will provide a knitted cross section approximating that shown inFIG. 4 in the swath S the group 120 of needles 16 on the front needlebed 12 opposite the removed or disabled needles on the rear needle bedwill once again provide two wales of jersey stitching on the front facelila of the fabric thereby providing a corresponding cusp or fold linesegment (e.g., cusp segment C The group of needles 122 on the frontneedle bed 12 and the corresponding group of needles 124 on the rearneedle bed 14 will provide three wales of double-faced rib stitching anda corresponding fold segment (e.g., fold segment S which in thisillustrative embodiment is two wales wider than the corresponding foldsegment in the swath S The group 126 of needles 18 on the rear needlebed 14 opposite the two inactive needles on the front needle bed willonce again provide two wales of jersey stitching on the rear face 10b ofthe knitted fabric 10 and a corresponding cusp segment or fold line onthe rear face of the fabric (e.g., cusp or fold line segment C Finally,the groups of needles 128, 131} (which are only partially shown but willbe two less than the corresponding groups 28, 30 in FIG. 6 due to thecorresponding increase in the width of the fold segments 122, 124) willcooperate to provide a group of wales of double-faced rib stitchingproviding a corresponding pleat segment (e.g. pleat segment P The needleset up to the left and the right of the described section of the frontand rear needle bars 12, 14 in FIG. 7 will repeat the form pleat andfold segments separated by cusp segments as previously described. It isof course appreciated that respective fold segments are decreased by twowales in the illustrative arrangement shown in FIG. 7, with acorresponding increase in the fold segments due to the racking over ofthe needle beds 12, 14 relative to each other. After the knitting of theplural courses which make up the section or swath S which will usuallybe equal in numbers to the courses knitted in swath or section S theneedle beds are once again racked over relative to each other, to form afurther swath or section (not shown) which will provide a correspondingstepwise decrease in the width of the successive pleat segments and acorresponding increase in the width of the successive fold segments.

For the illustrative setup shown in FIG. 8, the front needle bed 12 isracked over relative to the rear needle bed 14 to crease successive foldsegments F F F etc. which are increased to six wales of double-faced ribstitching, with a corresponding decrease in the number of wales of ribstitching in the pleat segments P P P Specifically, the group 220 ofneedle 16 on the front needle bed 12 opposite the removed or disabledneedles on the rear needle bed 14 will provide two wales of jerseystitching on the front face 10a of the fabric 10 thereby providing acorresponding cusp or fold line segment (e.g. cusp segment C The groupof six needles 222 on the front needle bed and the corresponding groupof needles 224 on the rear needle bed 214 will provide six wales ofdouble-faced rib stitching and a corresponding fold segment (e.g. foldsegment F The group 226 of three needles on the rear needle bed 14opposite the two inactive needles on the front needle bed will onceagain provide two wales of jersey stitching on the rear face 10b of theknitted fabric and a corresponding cusp segment or fold line on the rearface of the fabric (e.g., cusp or fold line segment C Finally, thegroups of needles 228, 230 on the front and rear needle beds 12, 14,respectively will cooperate to provide a group of wales of double-facedrib stitching providing a corresponding pleat segment (e.g., pleatsegment P Once again the increase in the width of the fold segments isaccompanied by a corresponding decrease in the width of the pleatsegments. Thus as progressive swaths or sections S 5 etc. are knittedthere will be provided correspondingly decreasing pleat segments whichare in end to end alignment with each other. By appropriate dimensioningthe vertical or longitudinal extent of the successive swaths and thedegree of racking between the formation of successive swaths, it ispossible to attain a pleat which has the appearance of being uniformlytapered from one end to the other.

Referring now to FIG. 9, there is shown the set up of the front and rearneedle 16, 18 for the illustrative condition of FIG. 7, with a typicalpiece of knitted fabric 19 depending therefrom. For the purposes ofillustration, the knitted loops which appear on the front face 1% of theknitted fabric 1d has been illustrated by the heavy solid line while theknitted loops which appear on the rear face ltib have been illustratedby the light open lines. Considering the illustrative portion of theknitted fabric 19 from right to left, it will be seen that the pluralwales and courses in the region of the needle groups 128, are ofdouble-faced rib stitching which will define a pleat segment, such as apleat segment P The next three wales are of single faced jerseystitching on the rear face 10b of the fabric 10 (the corresponding frontneedles having been disabled) thus providing a fold line or cuspsegment, such as the cusp segment C The next group of wales is onceagain of double-faced rib stitching corresponding generally to theneedle groups 122, 124 and provides a fold segment, such as the foldsegment F Since the specific formation of the respective courses andwales of the rib and jersey stitching are generally known to thoseskilled in the art, a detailed description of the stitch configurationsare omitted in the interests of simplicity and clarity. It will sufiiceto point out that these well known stitching arrangements can be formedon conventional knitting machines.

From the foregoing, it Will be appreciated that there has been providedin accordance with the present invention a relatively simple method forthe manufacture of naturally formed graduated knitted pleats, employingessentially conventional knitting machinery with the novel and improvedprocessing techniques in accordance with a the present invention. A widevariety of patterns for the tapered pleat configurations may bemanufactured in accordance with the present invention and the laterallyshifting or racking over of the needle beds relative to each other maybe achieved either manually, or automatically by appropriatelyprogramming the associated automatic controls of a conventional knittingmachine. Although the invention has been described in connection withthe use of a flat V-bed knitting machine, it will be appreciated thatthe invention finds application on circular knitting machines, such asthe Jacquard TI machine manufactured by Wildman-Iacquard MachineCompany. By appropriate setup of the knitting machine, the stepwisedecreases in the width of successive pleat segments along any one pleatmay be such as to impart a visual appearance which suggests a uniformlytapered pleat from one end to the other, notwithstanding the fact thatthe actual reductions in width occur at successive longitudinallocations along the length of each pleat. Any lateral discontinuitieswhich occur due to the racking over the needle beds relative to eachother during the intermediate snags-a successive swaths or sections maybe employed as a de sign feature for the garment. For example, at suchsuccessive transverse locations, the color and/or texture of the fabricmay be changed such as to obscure the racking line or course.

A latitude of modification, change and substitution is intended in theforegoing disclosure, and in some instances some features of theinvention will be used without a corresponding use of other features.Accordingly, it is appropriate that the appended claims be construedbroadly and in a manner consistent with the spirit and scope of theinvention herein.

What I claim is:

1. A method of manufacturing a knitted fabric having a plurality oflongitudinally extending pleats of decreasing widthsseparated by aplurality of longitudinally extending folds on a knitting machine of thetype having front and rear needle beds which are laterally shiftablerelative to each other including the steps of knitting plural courses ofa first swath including spaced first groups of wales of double-faced ribstitching providing a first set of pleat segments, spaced second groupsof wales of double-faced rib stitching providing a first set of foldsegments, and at least on wale of jersey stitching intermediate andjoining successive pleat and fold segments of said first and second setsand providing cusp segments, forming said wales of jersey stitching onsaid first swath such that there is a natural tendency for said firstset of fold segments to lie beneath said first set of pleat segments,shifting said front and rear beds relative to each other to provide agreater separation between adjacent and alternately formed cusp segmentsin a further swath, and thereafter knitting plural courses of at leastone further swath including spaced first groups of wales of double-facedrib stitching providing a further set of pleat segments, spaced secondgroups of wales of double-faced rib stitching providing a further set offold segments, and at least one wale of jersey stitching intermediateand joining the successive further pleat and fold segments of saidfurther groups and providing further cusp segments, forming alternateones of said wales of jersey stitching on said further swath such thatthere is a natural tendency for said further set of fold segments to liebeneath said further set of pleating segments.

2. A method of manufacturing a knitted fabric having a plurality oflongitudinally extending pleats of decreasing widths separated. by aplurality of longitudinally extending folds on a knitting machine of thetype having front and rear needle beds which are laterally shiftablerelative to each other including the steps of knitting plural coursesfirst swath such. that there is a natural tendency for said first setoffold segments to lie beneath said first set of pleat segments, shiftingsaid front and rear beds relative to each other to provide a greaterseparation between adjacent and alternately formed cusp segments in afurther swath, and thereafter knitting plural courses of at least onefurther swath including spaced first groups of wales of double-facedrib'stitching providing a further set of pleat segments, spaced secondgroups of wales of doublefaced rib stitching providing a further set offold segments,

and at least one wale of jersey stitching intermediate and joining thesuccessive further pleat and fold segments of said further groups andproviding further cusp segments,

forming alternate ones of said wales of jersey stitching on oppositefaces of said further swath such that there is a natural tendency forsaid further set of fold segments to lie beneath said further set ofpleating segments, the stepwise decrease in the width of said furtherset of pleat segments in relation to said first set of pleat segments atleast partially forming longitudinally extending tapered pleats.

3. In the manufacture of a knitted fabric on a knitting machine ,of thetype having front and rear needle beds, said fabric having a pluralityof longitudinally extending pleats of decreasing widths separated by aplurality of longitudinally extending folds, the steps includingknitting plural courses of a first swath including spaced first groupsof wales of double-facedrib stitching providing a first set of pleatsegments, spaced second groups of wales of double-faced rib stitchingproviding a first set of fold segments, and at least one wale of jerseystitching inter mediate and joining successive pleat and fold segmentsof said first and second sets and providing cusp segments, formingalternate ones of said walesof jersey stitching on said first swath suchthat there is a natural tendency for said fi st set of fold segments tolie beneath said first set of pleat segments, shifting said front andrear beds relative to each other to provide a greater separation betweenadjacent and alternately formed cusp segments in a further swath suchthat said pleat segments are of decreasing widths and said fold segmentsare of increasing widths, andthereafter knitting plural courses of atleast one further swath.

4. A method of manufacturing a knitted fabric having a plurality oflongitudinally extending pleats of decreasing widths separated by aplurality of longitudinally extending folds ,on a knitting machine ofthe type having front and rear needle beds which are laterally shiftablerelative to each other, including the steps of knitting plural courses,of a first swath including spaced first groups of wales of double-facedrib stitching providing a first set of pleat segments, spaced secondgroups of wales of double-faced rib stitching providing a first set 'offold segments, and one wale of jersey stitchingintermediate and joiningsuccessive pleat and fold segments of said first and second sets andproviding, cusp segments, forming alternate ones of said wales of jerseystitching on opposite faces of said first swath such that there is anatural tendency for said first set of fold segments to'lie beneath saidfirst set of pleat segments, shifting said front and rear beds relativeto each other to provide a greater separation between adjacent andalternately formed cusp segments in a further swath such that said pleatsegments are of decreasing widthsand said fold segments are ofincreasing widths, and thereafter successively knitting further swathswith further shifts of said front and rear beds relative to each othersuch that successive sets of pleating segments are formed in endwiserelation to each other.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 611,862 10/98Lamb 6669 892,902 7/ 08 Schutz 6669 943,921 12/09 Dubied et al 66692,093,858 9/37 Zimic 6669 2,132,512 10/38 Villette 6669 2,133,688 10/38Eck 6669 2,201,980 5/40 Artzt .et al 66200 2,599,168 6/52 Feldman 661772,619,819 12/52 Feldman 66177 2,622,423 12/52 Feldman 66175 2,643,5326/53 Sandri -66-69 FOREEGN PATENTS 94,113 9/23 Austria. 802,865 6/ 36France. 378,484 7/23 Germany.

RUSSELL C. MADER, Primary Examiner. V

1. A METHOD OF MANUFACTURING A KNITTED FABRIC HAVING A PLURALITY OFLONGITUDINALLY EXTENDING PLEATS OF DECREASING WIDTHS SEPARATED BY APLURALITY OF LONGITUDINALLY EXTENDING FOLDS ON A KNITTING MACHINE OF THETYPE HAVING FRONT AND REAR NEEDLE BEDS WHICH ARE LATERALLY SHIFTABLERELATIVE TO EACH OTHER INCLUDING THE STEPS OF KNITTING PLURAL COURSES OFA FIRST SWATH INCLUDING SPACED FIRST GROUPS OF WALES OF DOUBLE-FACED RIBSTITCHING PROVIDING A FIRST SET OF PLEAT SEGMENTS, SPACED SECOND GROUPSOF WALES OF DOUBLE-FACED RIB STITCHING PROVIDING A FIRST SET OF FOLDSEGMENTS, AND AT LEAST ON WALE OF JERSEY STITCHING INTERMEDIATE ANDJOINING SUCCESSIVE PLEAT AND FOLD SEGMENTS OF SAID FIRST AND SECOND SETSAND PROVIDING CUSP SEGMENTS, FORMING SAID WALES OF JERSEY STITCHING ONSAID FIRST SWATH SUCH THAT THERE IS A NATURAL TENDENCY FOR SAID FIRSTSET OF FOLD SEGMENTS TO LIE BENEATH SAID FIRST SET OF PLEATS SEGMENTS,SHIFTING SAID FRONT AND REAR BEDS RELATIVE TO EACH OTHER TO PROVIDE AGREATER SEPARATION BETWEEN ADJACENT AND ALTERNATELY FORMED CUSP SEGMENTSIN A FURTHER SWATH, AND THEREAFTER KNITTING PLURAL COURSES OF AT LEASTONE FURTHER SWATH INCLUDING SPACED FIRST GROUPS OF WALES OF DOUBLE-FACEDRIB STITCHING PROVIDING A FURTHER SET FO PLEAT SEGMENTS, SPACED SECONDGROUPS OF WALES OF DOUBLE-FACED RIB STITCHING PROVIDING A FURTHER SET OFFOLD SEGMENTS, AND AT LEAST ONE WALE OF JERSEY STITCHING INTERMEDIATEAND JOINING THE SUCCESSIVE FURTHER PLEAT AND FOLD SEGMENTS OF SAIDFURTHER GROUPS AND PROVIDING FURTHER CUSP SEGMENTS, FORMING ALTERNATEONES OF SAID WALES OF JERSEY STITCHING ON SAID FURTHER SWATH SUCH THATTHERE IS A NATURAL TENDENCY FOR SAID FURTHER SET OF FOLD SEGMENTS TO LIEBENEATH SAID FURTHER SET OF PLEATING SEGMENTS.